The spectacular flowering of bergenia (Bergenia) attracts attention, and unpretentiousness allows you to place a fragrant flower even in remote corners of a shady garden. With it, you can decorate the main lawn. To create a harmonious and viable composition, you need to know what time and how best to transplant the plant.

When to transplant a frankincense

Badan and its hybrids grow without visible problems up to 10 years in the same place. But already at half term textured leaves and peduncles lose their decorativeness, and thickening provokes diseases and the appearance of pests. Thickets often form in windless, secluded places, sheltered in winter by snowdrifts.

If nothing is done, the uncontrolled horizontally grown frankincense displaces other cultures over time, therefore every 5–6 years he will need a transplant to limit the area he has taken. Even with careful transshipment of a part of the plant along with an earthen lump, it reacts negatively to the transplant, stopping in development, and does not let out the color for the first 3 years in a new place, until it is thoroughly rooted.

At the same time, root sockets that can be planted multiply in the same season after a similar procedure. This property of reproduction is used to obtain a large number of new outlets from an adult plant for planting in order to fill empty areas of the garden.

Separation of the bush and the simultaneous transplantation of newly formed planting material is the only possible way to rejuvenate it and restore decorative qualities. Compliance with the correct planting dates will help accelerate survival in a new place of this unpretentious, winter-hardy culture.

Important! If the perennial lags behind in growth and is sick after transplantation due to unsuitable soil for it, do not rush to transplant it again, try to improve existing conditions as much as possible.

In summer

Although gardeners do not exclude the possibility of spring propagation before the buds release buds, which occurs in April, the best time for dividing and subsequent transfer to a new place is considered to be the period after it - July and August. These terms contribute to the rapid rooting, frankincense will have time to grow stronger before the onset of cold weather and form lush rosettes of leaves that will bloom after 2 years.

In June, it is permissible to plant strong, well-developed seedling seedlings up to 10–15 cm. Weaker seedlings will have to dive and grow. They will be ready for landing in the open ground only in early August.

As a rule, planting material is easily separated from the old plant after flowering and before the start of autumn. In an adult bush, the rhizome protrudes from the ground and is shallow, so digging and dividing the rhizomes for planting in the summer is not difficult.

Summer transfer of an adult bush is undesirable in the heat. This will provoke a disease or death of a perennial. In case of urgent need during transplantation, additional preventive measures will be required to save it: shading and mulching with a thick layer of sawdust, straw, leaves of the planting site.

Fall

In the first half of September, boldly transplant an adult bush to a new place in order to propagate it by vegetative division. In hot areas, the duration of the procedure, depending on the weather, may shift to October, if the heat does not stop for a long time.

So that in spring you will be pleased with the young formed plants, prepare holes in the autumn period, into which transfer the tops with rosettes of leaves. The first half of the month they need to provide sufficient watering if there is no rain. In cold regions with severe winters with little snow, provide lutrasil for bergenia when planting at a later time.

How to prepare a canopy for transplant

The easiest way to use for reproduction and subsequent transplantation is overgrown, but not an old bush, with large leaf blades. A large number of young outlets with their own surface roots are formed on it.

Important! To avoid the occurrence of diseases, do not wet the ground part of the plant, including flowers and leaves, when watering or immersing the roots in solutions.

They can be easily separated without harm to the mother plant in this way:

• cut off the rhizome with a shovel as close as possible to the mother liquor or tear off the adult bush with your hands, keeping the “heel” at the leaf sockets;
• keep at least 3 kidneys on one divide;
• remove all leaf plates from the handle, except for the pair of the youngest.

If you plan to rejuvenate an old bush of incense, proceed as follows:

Transplant technology

The root system of bergenia is unique: superficially located, horizontally branching, often goes beyond the soil. These factors determine the choice of a place with loose, slightly alkaline soil and the construction of shallow holes for transplants.

Keep in mind that incense does not tolerate moisture retention and bays, despite the growth in water bodies, therefore, high-quality drainage is required. Avoid high groundwater areas. It is not necessary to specially prepare the soil - under natural conditions, this type of saxifrage grows well on poor soil and tolerates acid peatlands.

Did you know? In Siberia, dried and crushed powder of incense rhizome is used to powder open wounds and ulcers, which speeds up their healing.

But if you want to recreate such specifics in the garden and transplant cuttings or seedlings according to all the rules to a permanent place, proceed as follows:

1. Mix gravel, sand and turf in a 2: 2: 1 ratio.
2. When planting in loamy soil, increase the amount of crushed stone and sand to 3 parts or add a third of the compost and the same amount of peat or humus. Mark up the holes for the prepared holes in a staggered pattern. Observe an interval of 40 cm between the pits, leaving room for free horizontal development of the rhizomes and leaves of the plant.
3. Dig holes, their depth should be 3-5 cm for seedlings and not more than 8 cm for cuttings, then moisten the notches.
4. As a drain, add a handful of coarse sand to the bottom of the planting pits.
5. Place the cuttings with rosettes, sprinkled with the Kornevin stimulator, in moist soil, under a slight slope. A month later, adventitious roots will appear, sleeping kidneys will start growing. Saplings move to a hole with preservation of an earth lump.
6. Fill the landing sites with specially prepared or ordinary soil so that the embedment depth does not exceed 5 cm.
7. Seal the landing site and water.
8. It is imperative to mulch the trunk around the bergenia to maintain moisture and prevent overheating of the roots.

Further care

You should not expect flowering from a planted plant recently. Badan takes root for a long time, grows slowly, and the first flowers appear in the second or even third year of life in a new place. For seedlings, these processes are halved: at the maximum, a rosette with several leaves will grow, and the flowering will be postponed for another two additional years.

Did you know? Leaf Blades of Frankincense — champions among wintering green leaves for endurance, they are able to live 2 years.

The first year of life of seedlings from the seeds and cuttings of incense on the site will require simple, but regular care:

1. For speedy engraftment, apply plenty of water and loosen the soil around outlets for the first two weeks after planting.
2. Constantly clean seedlings from weeds whose neighborhood it does not tolerate.
3. In November, cover the plants with a layer of foliage or spruce branches - despite the high frost resistance of adult bushes, young ones are sensitive to freezing temperatures.
4. Monitor and maintain the mulch layer for the first year.
5. In autumn, in older plants, remove old inflorescences to prepare for wintering.
6. Since March, you can remove the shelter from seedlings and transplanted outlets.
7. In the new season, for plants that have wintered after transplantation, manually remove the darkened and dried leaves at the moment of snow melting. Do not try to cut them with garden scissors, carefully tear off the damaged shriveled foliage and the place of attachment to the trunk.
8. In the spring, you can trim too large specimens.
9. In April, apply complex fertilizer for young outlets, this will support the plant during the first buds.

Watering

Drought-tolerant berry does not need irrigation constantly, but the first 14 days after transplantation, water is needed. To prevent flooding, add small portions of room temperature water. In dry weather, the amount of moisture should be increased, although a stronger plant can withstand a two-week drought.

If it rains, irrigation is unnecessary. Take care that the water does not stagnate at the roots, the roots are extremely sensitive to it, so they can rot. In shady places, the liquid evaporates more slowly, this must also be taken into account at the frequency and amount of its application.

Important! In the natural environment, dead and flying leaves carry a protective function for the root of the incense, preventing its overheating. In the garden, he needs a layer of mulch for the same purpose.

In the following season, soil moisture for transplanted bergenia should be reduced:

• the first watering is necessary during the formation of buds;
• repeat the procedure a second time during mass flowering;
• perform the last irrigation 2-3 weeks after it;
• in the absence of natural rainfall, continue to moisten the bush until the end of summer.

Fertilizer and fertilizer

Badan, like many representatives of the Saxifrage family, does not feel the need for additional nutrition immediately after transplantation into fertile soil. A rotten mulch during the winter replaces all the necessary care work: it supplies organic matter with bergenia, loosens the soil, thereby improving oxygen delivery to the roots. The overfed plant lives on and does not bloom in due time. But, despite the tolerance for unenriched soil, the bush will significantly respond to the introduction of nutrition during growth.

Follow the following pattern after moving the frankincense to a new place, after a year or two, and he will thank you with lush color and chic foliage:

1. When the snow melts, immediately after the spring sanitary pruning, add a complex of minerals. Granules of ammonium nitrate (15–25 g per 1 m²) and superphosphate (40–60 g per 1 m²) or liquid fertilizers or liquid fertilizers are suitable, following which you should follow the instructions.
2. 2 weeks after flowering, add additional substances for the bookmark, growth rate and density of new leaves - they will be needed to restore the stock spent on flowers. Use 5 liters of Kemira-Kombi mortar (1 tbsp. Per 10 liters of water) for 1 m² of land.

Important! Combine the application of nutrients with watering or feed on moist soil so as not to burn the root system.

Lighting

Such a quality as shade tolerance is developed by the usual conditions for the growth of incense. In nature, it settles on steep cliffs, mountain slopes, in dense forests, so it will not suffer from the lack of bright light. But you shouldn’t hide it in the pitch shadow: if rays do not fall on it, the bush will not grow well, refuse to let out buds or their color will fade, as happens under the forest canopy.

Bergenia will not die in sunny places, provided it is necessarily shaded from the direct sun and there is a layer of mulch that hides the roots from the withering sun.

The abundance of light will make the bush bloom more magnificent, and the leaves will acquire juicy greens with a reddish tint to winter. But a long stay in the sun can burn leaves, accelerate the end of flowering, lead to inhibition of the entire plant, leaving it without growth.

A slightly shaded place or a bright diffused light with partial shading in the afternoon is perfect for badanas. It feels good when planting under trees and on the north side of the garden, in its western and eastern variations.

Humidity and air temperature

Drought-resistant bergenia does not tolerate high humidity, in the natural environment, its regulation is carried out by independent dumping of foliage. Fallen large leaves sprinkle the top layer of the earth, where the roots are located. Therefore, the soil under the cover never dries.

Important! Try not to allow air to dry out, because the leaves of the incense will lose moisture and fall off, but you should not spray it and constantly moisten it.

To preserve the aesthetic appearance in the garden, the fallen leaves are removed, so the earth dries up, while the dryness of the air around the plant increases. In this case, it is necessary to mulch the places of growth. To do this, use freshly cut grass, sawdust mixed with sand and humus, crushed bark and any available materials.

This unpretentious flower is grown everywhere; it feels great in diametrically opposite conditions.. In arid regions, the conditions for it are regulated by additional watering, in cold regions - by shelter for the winter. Badan will calmly tolerate summer temperatures of + 30 ° C and higher on a sunny spot in the climate of the Siberian or Moscow region, while the South Urals sunshine will require additional measures - plenty of moisture and slight shading.

therefore plant a climate-adjusted flower for a region - in the conditions of the steppe, with dry winds and the scorching sun, choose a shaded place with a decrease in temperature, you can place the incense at the pond, and in the temperate climatic zone both sun and partial shade are acceptable for the plant. For seed germination, humidity and temperature must be high. This can be achieved in a greenhouse so that seedlings that appear after 2 weeks are already transplanted into the ground in June.

Perennial frost-resistant - most varieties under snow cover survive Siberian frosts, with temperatures reaching up to –40 ° С. In the absence of snow, rhizomes can freeze. To avoid frostbite, take care of shelter in the fall. Protects from frost by a layer of foliage or straw, pressed on top of the spruce branches. Be sure to dismantle the shelters at the end of February, without waiting for warming, otherwise the plant will die from aging.

Did you know? Badan is the leader among plants in the number of tannins — in leaves, their content is 4 times higher than in oak bark. In industrial conditions, tarpaulin is impregnated with leaf extract.

Regions with mild winters and a maximum temperature of –10 ° C are excellent for this perennial - it will endure such conditions without shelter. At the same time, it is advisable to insulate young transplanted dividers in the first wintering with leaves or spruce. The intake of air will protect the roots from decay.

From the variety of varieties for the middle band, choose adapted to such climatic conditions, they do not need serious protection from frost, but to be safe, do not deprive them of old leaves. Plant European varieties in the corners of the garden with an unlikely access to icy air currents, otherwise the leaves will freeze and flower stalks will turn black when the frost returns. Avoid planting unstable breeding species in open northern and eastern areas and in lowlands.

Pest and Disease Control

Among gardeners, there is an opinion about the resistance of fermentation to diseases and pests. But planting in the wrong place, drought or moisture, along with the weakness of overwintered foliage, can breach the natural defenses, and the plant becomes vulnerable.

Badan will quickly die due to rotten roots at the bay in the absence of drainage. If the oppressed appearance of the plant runs into this cause, etch the ground with a solution of Maxim (10 ml per 5 l of water) or transplant it to remove areas damaged by rot. Exceeding the humidity level during stagnation of the air exposes it to the risk of fungal infections.

Septoria, ramularis or spotting appear on leaves in the form of dark spots with sharply defined borders. When the disease worsens, the infected areas turn brown, the outer part of the leaf acquires a grayish tint, and the underside becomes a whitish coating. With the onset of frost, the fungal infection will not disappear.

The following measures will help:

• complete removal of the affected foliage;
• a single treatment with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, Fundazole or any systemic fungicide;
• thinning of landings for air flow to tight sockets;
• decrease in watering frequency;
• plant transplant with a high groundwater location.

Bergenia plantings should be regularly inspected for the timely detection of pests:

• slugs and snails spoil the decorative leaves. To prevent their appearance, they make a layer of dry and wounding mulch: spruce needles, egg shells, stone chips. Granules containing metaldehyde, such as Thunderstorm 3 or ExtraFlor, help to fight;
• hookworms appear with excess moisture in rotting tissues. Their mass distribution will complicate the salvation of the bush. You should completely dig out the frankincense, soak the root for 30 minutes. in a strong solution of potassium permanganate and transfer to a new place. The site of detection of parasites spill contact poison containing methyl mercaptophos, karbofos, phosphamide, lindane. You can use this site for planting only after a year, leaving it under steam in the current season;
• slobbery pennies, or cicadas try to love the wide leaves growing in the shade, in the humid lowlands, greenhouses. They feed on the juice of all parts of the plant, injecting poison back, due to which the plant dies. Provide access to the sun, drying out the soil and stop feeding to prevent invasion;
• weevil Eats around the outer edge of the sheet plate. He settles and lays eggs in the organic remains of flying leaves. The worst thing is the larvae - they penetrate the soil and feed on the roots, which is more harmful to the bergenia than the deformed leaves. Cope with insects under the power of insecticides. Perform a double treatment of bushes with a 7-day interval with a solution of Intavir, Aktara, Actellik, Fitoverm according to the instructions. Spray on a dry, clear day at a temperature not lower than + 21 ° C, but not higher than + 28 ° C.

Important! Be sure to carry out spring sanitation and cleaning of darkened leaves, that is, these are favorite secluded places for wintering weevils.

What are the problems with transplantation?

Bergenia does not plague its owners with whims: for a long time and without difficulties it grows in one place, and since it rarely gets sick, preventive treatments can be omitted. Those conditions that are best suited to perennials are usually harmful to pests and infections, so it is very important to provide the plant with the opportunity to fully develop.

Problems that may appear in a new place near the stands:

1. Young specimens grow very slowly. The transplanted divide 1–2 leaves released by the end of the season with which it will leave for the winter is not a cause for concern, as is the lack of flowering this and next season. Often the perennial blooms luxuriantly only in the third year after transplantation, so do not make frequent transplants, because of which growth slows down in a new place and buds are absent for a long time. Do not often transplant the incense unnecessarily, t. He departs from this for a long time.
2. The lack of flowering in an overgrown plant makes it necessary to verify compliance with the rules on agricultural technology. Possible causes include a lack of sunlight and an excessive shadow.
3. Yellow sluggish leaves indicate stagnation of moisture and acidified soil, due to which the roots rot. The problem lies in the fact that when transplanting into loam, drainage was not provided. In this case, treat the roots with a solution of potassium permanganate, removing the damaged ones, and transplant the sockets into a suitable drained place.

Important! To restrain horizontal spread and aggression towards neighbors of massive specimens of bergenia, limit it to a curb or decorative stone.

The unpretentiousness and versatility of use provided the perennial love of simple flower growers and eminent breeders. With minimal care and favorable conditions, chic leaves, a variety of species and the beauty of flowers become the highlight of the shady area, and you already know the rules for placement and transplantation.